Alternatives to retinol
Two serums formulated without retinol, for those who prefer an evening routine without retinoids: the bakuchiol serum, an extract from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, and the serum with Bidens pilosa extract.
The formula of the bakuchiol serum is COSMOS ORGANIC certified, and that of the Bidens pilosa serum is COSMOS NATURAL certified. Both are to be used in the evening; as with any anti-aging routine, apply sunscreen in the morning.
Bakuchiol or retinol
| Bakuchiol | Retinol | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | A compound extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It is not a retinoid. | A form of vitamin A, from the retinoid family. |
| What studies show | A randomized, double-blind study of 44 people: 0.5% bakuchiol twice a day reduced wrinkles and pigment spots after 12 weeks as much as 0.5% retinol once a day. | One of the most studied anti-aging ingredients, used for decades. |
| Tolerance | In the same study, less scaling and stinging than with retinol. | Can cause redness, scaling and stinging, especially in the first weeks. |
| EU rules | No specific concentration limit. | Maximum 0.05% in body lotions and 0.3% in other products, such as face creams (retinol equivalent, Regulation (EU) 2024/996). |
| Pregnancy and breastfeeding | Data are limited. Ask your doctor. | Usually avoided. Ask your doctor. |
| At Epic Beauty | Bakuchiol oil serum | We do not sell retinol products. |
Sources: Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019 · Regulation (EU) 2024/996
Frequently Asked Questions
Bakuchiol or retinol: which should I choose?
If your skin is sensitive or has not tolerated retinol, bakuchiol is the gentler option, with a study showing comparable results. If you tolerate retinol and want the ingredient with the most data behind it, retinol remains the reference, but we do not sell retinol products. Whichever you choose, apply sunscreen in the morning.
What is bakuchiol?
A compound extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It is not a retinoid. In a randomized, double-blind clinical study of 44 people, 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily reduced wrinkles and pigment spots after 12 weeks just as much as 0.5% retinol, with less scaling and stinging (Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019). The manufacturer does not disclose the concentration of bakuchiol in our serum, so the study results do not automatically transfer to it.
What is Bidens pilosa extract?
An extract from a plant in the Asteraceae family, used in cosmetics as a botanical alternative to retinol. Published studies on it are fewer than those on bakuchiol, so we present it only as an ingredient in the formula, without attributing results to it.
When and with what should I use them?
In the evening, on clean skin, before your moisturizer. Apply sunscreen in the morning. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, consult your doctor before starting a new routine.
